What role does flax play in a low-carbon textile industry?

A trendy material, a “ Made in France ", a material of the future… Linen is making a comeback in the textile industry. Used as far back as ancient Egypt to wrap mummies, this local, natural fiber is now regaining its prestige, far removed from the image of the rustic, embroidered sheets of yesteryear. More and more brands and designers are embracing this material, drawn to its environmental potential and local roots, to reduce the impact of their production. Here, we will focus on the use of linen in the fashion industry: its applications in home furnishings and technical uses are beyond the scope of this article.

A natural fiber grown primarily in France, flax seems to check all the boxes for a low-carbon textile. But what are its actual advantages, and what role does it play in transforming the textile industry? What creative and industrial barriers still need to be overcome to accelerate its development?

From Flower to Fiber: The Benefits of Flax

Flax is a natural plant fiber, grown primarily in Europe. France is the world's leading producer of flax fiber, accounting for more than 65% of global production.^[1]. Other countries, such as Belarus, Ukraine, Russia, Egypt, and China, grow flax, but their flax does not match the quality of European flax or the yield of European farmland.

Flax therefore grows mainly along the coast between Caen and Amsterdam thanks to soil and climate conditions—that is, those related to soil quality and climate—typical of an oceanic climate, which are essential for its cultivation. Flax is a plant well-suited to the coastal lands of Western Europe, making it an ideal choice for low-carbon European fashion.

In addition to being a locally grown fiber, flax is also a crop that requires relatively few natural resources: the plant does not require irrigation and uses very littleinputs^[2]. From an agronomic perspective, it helps preserve soil quality by promoting crop rotation.

However, growing it remains challenging and is subject to the vagaries of the weather, particularly periods of intense heat followed by heavy rains. These conditions disrupt its growth cycle and can directly affect the quality of the fiber.

After it is harvested, flax undergoes several stages of processing before it becomes yarn, and then fabric or knitwear:

After flowering, the flax is pulled up and left on the ground to tanning. This is the plant’s first natural transformation process, facilitated by the alternation of sun and rain. Microorganisms in the soil break down the pectose, thereby releasing the fibers. However, this key step also depends on weather conditions: prolonged periods of drought or a lack of rain can disrupt the retting process and compromise the final quality.

Next comes the threshing : This mechanical process separates the various parts of the plant. The long fibers are used in textiles, while the short fibers are used in furniture or paper products. The seeds are used to produce oil or as planting stock, and the anas—the woody part of the stem—are used in gardening or as animal bedding. The entire plant is therefore put to good use, making flax a zero-waste fiber.

Thanks to this agricultural and industrial expertise, the flax processing method remains natural and mechanical, and is therefore relatively resource-efficient and energy-efficient compared to the production of conventional cotton or synthetic fibers.

Thus, compared to other textile fibers—whether synthetic, artificial, or natural—European flax stands out for its low carbon footprint, which is approximately 75% lower than that of conventional cotton. In fact, cotton cultivation requires significant amounts of water, as well as the use of fertilizers and pesticides. As for synthetic fibers, which are derived from petroleum, their production generates significant greenhouse gas emissions.

Beyond its agronomic and environmental benefits, flax also offers excellent textile properties. Breathable and temperature-regulating, it is suitable for both hot and cold seasons. Both stiff and lightweight, it resists stretching well, ensuring great durability—as evidenced by linen sheets passed down from generation to generation.

Aesthetically speaking, linen stands out for its irregularity and slubby texture^[4]. Emma Bruschi, a craftsperson and designer, granted us an interview to explain why she loves working with linen, beyond its environmental benefits. She told us that she particularly appreciates this material for “its somewhat grainy, textured weaves,” “its slight thickness,” and “the yarn, which isn’t too smooth but has a bit of a rough texture.” Linen thus possesses a unique aesthetic that contributes to its appeal.

These textile properties, along with its agronomic and environmental qualities, explain the growing popularity of flax among both consumers and textile brands. This strong demand has led to an increase in the area under cultivation in Europe of more than 120% between 2014 and 2024.^[5]. However, while the upstream portion of the flax industry is based in Europe—making flax a fiber of choice for brands seeking to adopt a local approach—today, the processing of flax fiber into yarn is primarily carried out in Asia.

From Fiber to Yarn: Linen, a Material Primarily Processed in Asia

Currently, about 90% of European scutched flax is exported to Asia for the stage of the spinning mill, of which 80% are in China and 10% in India. With about 60 spinning mills, China accounts for the bulk of the global flax processing capacity, handling not only yarn production but also the weaving, knitting, and garment manufacturing stages—unless these are outsourced to neighboring countries in Southeast Asia. The material then returns to Europe, mainly in the form of finished products, but also, to a lesser extent, as yarns or woven/knitted fabrics.

Despite the massive shift of production to Asia, some European spinning mills have continued to operate, accounting for about 7% of the volume of scutched flax^[6]. Today, there are about ten spinning mills in Europe, and several new ones are in the works, particularly in Portugal^[7]. Although this segment represents a minority of the market, it meets a growing demand for more local production chains and enhanced traceability.

For a long time, the lack of spinning mills in France prevented the production of 100% linen clothing Made in France. Today, several spinning mills have been reopened, particularly in Normandy, with The French Spinning Mill and in the Hauts-de-France region with Safilin, while a project is under development in Brittany^[8].

The presence of flax spinning mills in Europe and France thus ensures that clothing production is 100% local (Made in France / Made in Europe), thereby avoiding the export of raw materials to Asia for processing.

This is a major advantage for brands looking for 100% Made in France, processed as close as possible to where the raw materials were grown. Indeed, a new generation of designers is emerging who are rethinking fashion and challenging the current production model, advocating for a shift toward more responsible and locally rooted production.

How does this translate in terms of carbon emissions?

This chart, which compares four shirts—one made of cotton and the others of European linen—shows that a European linen shirt processed in France is the best option from a carbon perspective, with a carbon footprint that is 71% lower than that of a European linen shirt processed in China.

However, contrary to the ideas promoted by certain brands in the fast fashion, a European linen shirt does not necessarily guarantee a low carbon footprint, since manufacturing in a country with a high-carbon energy mix—such as China—can significantly increase greenhouse gas emissions. Therefore, sourcing local raw materials must be combined with manufacturing—from yarn to finished garment—in a country with a low-carbon energy mix, such as France, to ensure a real reduction in the product’s carbon footprint.

Harnessing the creative potential of flax to strengthen local production chains

Although flax is enjoying a resurgence in popularity due to its environmental benefits and European production, it remains a niche fiber in the textile industry, accounting for less than 1% of the world’s fiber production^[9]. Its availability is subject to significant fluctuations during cultivation and retting, influenced by unpredictable weather conditions that directly impact harvests and fiber quality. This volatility leads to price instability, making flax more expensive than other natural fibers such as cotton, which accounts for about 25% of the world’s textile fibers.^[10]. This cost is even more pronounced when fiber processing remains confined to Europe, where production standards and labor costs are higher.

This scarcity and high price point make one thing essential: demonstrating its creative potential to justify a high-end positioning and thus ensure sustained demand for European linen, processed locally.

Linen is still struggling to gain a foothold in the fashion world, held back by an image that is too closely associated with seasonality and casual style. Associated with lightweight shirts and summer dresses, it suffers from its naturally wrinkled and slubbed appearance, which, while distinctive, can be perceived as an aesthetic limitation. During our discussions with various players in the textile industry, several pointed out that this strong visual identity could hinder its adoption: some brands fear that the fabric might overshadow the design. Furthermore, its rustic and natural appearance limits it to a more raw aesthetic, with some considering it less “elegant” than other so-called “noble” fibers.

Yet linen has creative potential that can be harnessed to expand its low-carbon impact in the fashion industry. Textile innovation is now pushing the boundaries of what’s possible: linen knitwear is paving the way for more flexible pieces like T-shirts and sweaters, while blends with fibers such as recycled wool give it new textures and greater seasonal adaptability. These developments offer linen the opportunity to reinvent itself, moving away from its traditional image to capture new market segments, including high-end ready-to-wear and winter collections.

Its widespread adoption will depend on this creative exploration, which is essential for unlocking its full potential and encouraging its long-term integration into collections.

Conclusion

Despite its growing popularity, flax remains a niche fiber in the textile industry. However, amid the shift toward more sustainable fashion, it retains a strategic role alongside other natural fibers such as hemp. Its low environmental impact makes it an asset for a low-carbon industry, provided that its processing remains local and low-emission. The future of linen therefore hinges on two key factors: the relocation of processing stages to limit its carbon footprint, and a creative and innovative approach to attract brands and expand its applications.